After a couple “soft open” evenings last week, Chef Leo Bongarra says he’s full throttle ahead with this Wednesday’s opening of his newest concept, 237 Ocean Avenue in the former “Breeze and Brews” location. The restaurant is in the downtown quadrant at (handily) 237 Ocean Avenue, next to Sushi Laguna … even your Uber driver won’t be confused.
237 Ocean Ave hours are as follows:
Lunch: Wednesdays through Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.
Open between lunch and dinner for bites and cocktails
Dinner: Wednesdays through Saturdays, 5:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.
Nightclub: 10:00 p.m. to 1:00 a.m. with DJs
Sunday Brunch – starting this Sunday, Father’s Day - brunch from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
There are NO reservations being taken at this moment so, my friend, you might want to line up outside like we do for spare Pageant tickets every morning (if you’re a local, you know exactly what I’m talking about.)
For the time being, the old “Breeze and Brews” signage is still on the awning but, short of the gigantic copper brew tanks at the end of the bar, 237 Ocean Avenue looks – and feels – like an entirely different world.
“I just wanted to created a new space that feels like you’re being spoiled rotten but without any of that stuffy pretense that sometimes comes with being spoiled rotten,” said Bongarra.
”I wanted it to reflect the vibe of Laguna Beach … beauty everywhere you look with a cool, super-unique energetic vibe. People feel lucky that they’ve discovered Laguna Beach. That’s how I want them to feel about 237 Ocean Avenue – I want them to love being in this place and bringing their friends here and meeting new friends here.”
The plush life
How Chef Leo and friends pulled this off in just a couple of weeks is beyond me. To this he shrugs, “It was just scrubbing and polishing … and we painted a wall.”
“Riiiiiight. That’s all,” I think as I stare around with my mouth hanging open.
Rows of standard bar tables have been replaced with plush decor, from wingback chairs to velvet setees and whitewashed table rounds. Giant Argentinian-crafted doors sweep to the high ceiling as backdrop to a second service bar and live plants everywhere soften the corners and high spaces. Selected Laguna artists adorn the walls, including the fantastic work of LCAD graduate Andrew Myers’ original “Screw Art.”
Even the front-facing patio is filled with low slung leather chairs. In short, it’s an absolute metamorphosis.
But this is what great Chefs do: They fill their new restaurant spaces with personality pieces of them. And that’s even before they get around to designing the menu.
A greatly expanded menu in more way than one
Chef Leo worked his way up in this world by taking on chef positions in multiple countries. When he hopped over to the United States, a trail of awards followed him, and those awards didn’t stop when he made his first stop in Beverly Hills.
He finally found his way to Laguna Beach as Executive Chef at the new Hotel Joaquin in north Laguna Beach. Unfortunately, few of us got to know Chef there as the restaurant only catered to its resident guests. (Talk about being spoiled rotten!)
Chef emerged into more of the Laguna public eye last summer when he took on Terra (Festival grounds), Larsen (Hotel Laguna), The [seven-degrees] event center and Laguna Art A Fair in one big, bold sweep. When the festival season ended, it was on to completing the darling he’d always wanted to put in play, Tango. He left there several weeks ago for the expanded space and opportunity at what used to be more of a beer pub, Breeze & Brew.
Chef Leo’s favorites from 11 countries
At 237 Ocean Avenue, Chef Leo brings all of his “worldly” experience into menu form with bites and specialty dishes from 11 countries. “I loved all of these when I discovered them, so now I make all of them,” he told me. “It keeps me happy all day long in the kitchen.”
Each morning, Chef personally creates everything on the menu, from sauces, dips and dressings to soup, housemade fries, the breading for Schnitzel and the Spätzle that goes under it. He does it all.
Although I’ve only been there twice to try his hearty "Bites,”
Fluffy Burrata with Chef' Leo’s signature grilled crostini sliced vertically along a bread loaf …
Bright Chilled Mussels served Provencal style …
Fun, beefy Chili Fries …
A jumbo Beyond Vegan Meat meatball in super-fresh marinara …
A fabulous Artichoke salad with fresh greens and house-cured artichoke hearts atop mascarpone cheese (“Mix it all together,” he advises.)
All flawless and flavorful, to the last one. These items … that could be written off as just another appetizer … were absolutely memorable. Although I’m not quite sure what I want to try first on my return, I’ll say that the Artichoke Salad was a very happy surprise.
Chef’s larger entrées include (listing just a few here) Maine Blue Crab Cakes with Aleppo Hollandaise (aleppo being a red chile pepper that hails from Syria), Seared Scallops with corn purée, and Notting Hill Fish & Chips with house made brown sauce that apparently every person who’s ever traveled to London will understand.
And there’s more – Chef’s “Best of L.A.” award-winning Burger, Steak Frites, Mushroom Pappardelle, Chicken Schnitzel and more.
Oh. And let’s not forget that this bar serves up a full assortment of fresh-brewed beers, chef-chosen wines, and craft cocktails.
Even a nightclub after 10:00 p.m.
The former Breeze & Brews had a nightclub permit, and Chef Leo plans to continue along the theme. So, formal dinner menus will stop at 10:00 p.m. to allow for a larger, open floor and popular regional DJs. 237 Ocean Avenue will remain open at least till midnight.
For now, I advise getting there in the early hours for a lunch, dinner or Sunday brunch seat at this highly-anticipated newest concept from Chef Leo Bongarra.
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