Listen above: Mon, Sept. 23rd’s Best of Laguna show at KXFM 104.7 radio with my special guest, “Beautification Consultant” Ruben Flores:
3:39 Ruben Flores recalls his first visit to Laguna Beach at the age of 5. (You wouldn’t believe where his family parked for their beach visit)
6:33 The eclectic property in Laguna Beach that Ruben chose for his own home
7:47 One of the Best of Laguna Beach Walking Tours ever … still rolling this winter
12:29 When Laguna Sushi is closing. Get in there, please, to thank Chef Jay Sada (and the funniest story Chef ever shared with me)
14:44 Ruben’s favorite taco in town as we discuss the Best of Laguna “#1 Taco” survey in honor of National Taco Day on Oct. 1st.
22:35 We talk about easy, inexpensive upgrades for our Laguna Beach “Bourbon Street,” Ocean Avenue. We also discuss the “beautification ordinance” the City recently passed to provide subsidy to Laguna Beach storefront owners.
27:28 The “Little Freebirds” awesome kids’ clothing store I love on Ocean Avenue, Chef Leo Bongarra’s move to 237 Ocean Avenue to brighten that space, and Wild Taco’s commitment to staying in Laguna Beach on the corner of Ocean Ave.
36:20 Our combined take on the new restaurant, Evan’s Gourmet, and Chef Evan Lewis’ stint in this town since childhood. We discuss Evan’s serendipitous movement into restaurant ownership, her 22-year catering world that still continues, and her menu items we loved most when Ruben, Nelson Coates and I chose Evan’s for dinner last weekend.
4:56 Evan’s is changing up her reservation system, and this is why. Plus - Evan’s Happy Hour specials and Laguna Beach resident DISCOUNTS (quite lovely).
Evan’s Gourmet is neighborly warmth with stellar food experience
Chef Evan Lewis may seem like a “newbie” chef in town with her restaurant, Evan’s Gourmet (the old ROUX location on Glenneyre), but she’s been here for decades.
Chef Evan was born and raised in Laguna Beach; in fact, she just celebrated her 40th Laguna Beach High School reunion with fellow graduates a couple weeks ago.
Years ago, while working at the Cedar Creek Inn (where Lumberyard now stands), Evan met Cafe Zoolu Restaurateurs Michael and Toni Leech when they would come in on Sunday nights for the oyster bar. She eventually went to work for them at Zoolu, and stayed there for years until they sold to what would become ROUX.
“When I was able to secure this place as my own, it felt like I’d come back home,” she told me.
Chef Evan wasn’t always sure she wanted a restaurant, actually. For 22 years now, she’s proven a highly successful and sought-after caterer with a roster or clients who’ve stayed with her for years. (Be sure to reserve your upcoming parties and dinners by checking out EvansGourmet.com). And, she’s been a permanent fixture at the Sawdust Festival, serving up a high-pressure audience for nine years.
“I’ve had those moments when I’ve had to create 220 plated swordfish dishes at once. And, on the last day of Sawdust this summer, we served 141 orders of french fries, alone. So, I guess I figured that, at this point, I had gained plenty of experience in learning to be flexible, fast and creative on the fly,” she said. “What more stress could a restaurant be?!”
Ha. That’s probably one of those questions you don’t want to ask the universe.
Chef Evan took over the intimate 34-seat space on New Year’s Day of this year (2024) and opened to the public on January 24th. Aside from delays with her new signage, Evan says the transfer was relatively easy and that the lovely space required few changes or improvements. “I wanted the walls to be a little darker to give more of an at-home dining room feel, and we changed up some of the cookware for my style, but otherwise it was an easy move.”
Evan’s Gourmet Days and Hours of Operation
860 Glenneyre Street
Opens at 5 pm Wed through Sat evening (Closed Mon and Tues)
Sunday, 11 am- 3 pm brunch only
Happy Hour, 5 pm - 6 pm with $2 off everything
LOCAL Discount: 10% off entire bill
RESERVATIONS: Call 949-388-1568
Don’t skip the specials!
Each night, a chalkboard by the kitchen posts the nightly specials. Pay attention to that as these are very special treats. On the night I was there with my dear friends, Ruben Flores and Nelson Coates, we all opted for the Cauliflower & Goat Cheese Soup. It was phenomenal with toasted pine nuts tucked in, a scattering of micro shaved scallions and drizzle of thyme oil on top.
Of an array of appetizers (Chef Evan’s Asparagus Cigars are the best-sellers here as well as at Sawdust), we opted for New Orleans Style BBQ Shrimp and Blue Crab Cakes.
The shrimp was bright and beautiful, basted in a sublime creole style sauce. It serves plenty for two or three people, but you’d better be fast about it!
I love shrimp dishes but not nearly as much as I love crab cakes. I’m one of those who has to try crab cakes everywhere I go, especially Blue Crab, which is more of an Atlantic and Gulf delicacy. Chef Evan did NOT disappoint with these beauties. Served up with a perky jalapeno tartar sauce, it was chock full of crab with just enough bread crumbs and egg to hold it all together. I would return to Evan’s just for that dish and an accompanying glass of wine.
A Bright, Sunshiny Day With These Entrees
Aside from hearty slabs of salmon that can be added to either of her salads, Chef features two glorious sandwiches and three entrées on the regular menu (remember: there’s that chalkboard, too).
While the regular patrons touted Chef Evans’ hefty Angus Burger (one I’ll have to try before next year’s Cheeseburger roundup article) and her Filet Mignon … well, now that I think of it, they touted everything on the menu … the three of us chose Chicken Dijon, Miso-Sake Sea Bass and the Ahi Sandwich.
The Chicken Dijon seems to be a leading seller, and Ruben opted for the significant dish. This was a giant in both boneless chicken portion and flavor. It’s seared first and then simmered at low heat in a rich Dijon cream sauce with mushrooms, shallots, garlic and thyme. End result: Fall apart tenderness.
The chicken is paired with crisp veggies and mashed potatoes whipped with butter, cream and caramelized leeks. Oh my.
Given my recent cholesterol test (hey! It was my birthday AND all that cheeseburger tasting), I opted for the Sea Bass. Chef Evan pan-sears the sea bass first and then finishes it in the oven. She glazes it with … wait for it … a miso-saké glaze made up of white miso (a popular soybean paste), Japanese white wine (mirin) and saké.
Then, Chef nestles it all into forbidden black rice that she’s doctored with coconut oil, garlic and ginger. Absolutely the best pairing of sea bass with a starch I believe I’ve tasted yet.
Nelson, who said he was already pretty full, chose the Ahi Sandwich. You know … something kind of easy and light. A few minutes later, out walked a leaning tower of craziness that made all our eyes pop. Ruben noted later that it reminded him of Chef Michael Leech’s former baseball-sized swordfish.
This proud tower boasted a SIX ounce sashimi-grade chunk of tuna, seared impeccably and topped with melty muenster cheese. The focaccia roll, slathered in jalapeno tartar sauce, did its best to hold in the housemade pickles, spry arugula and tomatoes.
And, just to be sure Nelson didn’t depart hungry, Chef Evan sent along a serving bowl of her steak fries (photo above).
I remember loving the Ahi Sandwiches at the Cedar Creek of yore, but this Evan’s Gourmet beauty definitely wears the new crown.
Sunday Brunch, Too
Taking a page from Restaurateurs Michael and Toni Leech, Chef Evan offers a Sunday brunch from 1 - 3 p.m, and then closes for the evening. While I haven’t yet tried Evan’s brunch, I’m more than game as she had me at those crab cakes. One of her two “eggy” specialties includes eggs benedict done three ways - choose the “basic” with creamed swiss chard (what’s basic about that lovely idea?), poached egg and Hollandaise. Or add filet mignon, or add a crab cake.
In my KXFM 104.7 radio show this last Monday, I told Ruben (there in the studio with me) that I had always loved the Crab Cake Benedict at the restaurant, Clae’s, at Hotel Laguna … clearly years ago, if any locals remember that amazing dish. I’ve a feeling I won’t be disappointed with Chef Evan’s renditions.
The Evan’s reservation system changes after Oct 16th
In our radio show, I noted that Chef Evan (along with many other restaurants here in town) has struggled with an inordinate number of last-minute cancellations. People have gotten into the habit of booking multiple restaurants for an evening out, and then either cancelling at the last minute or not showing at all. Appalling behavior, especially when dealing with our smaller indy restaurants here in town.
It has cost Chef Evan so much in wasted prep time and food costs that she’s decided to do away with her call-in reservations system completely. She has opted, instead for an “Evan’s VIP Program.” Now, simply arrive and enjoy your dining experience on a first-come, first-served basis. But, if you’d prefer her cell phone number to ensure your reservation, Chef Evan will give that prized commodity out as patrons come in for their next visit.
I’d like to think I’m a VIP now because I happen to have that hallowed cell phone connection to Chef Evan Lewis. And what an honor it is to be a part of Evan’s Gourmet world.
Be sure to show some ongoing love for this native Laguna Beach talent. This is a restaurant we definitely want to see survive and thrive. For now, call in your reservation: 949-388-1568. I’ll see you there at the Chef’s Table dining bar.
Join me next Monday, Sept 30th, 2 pm PDT/5 pm EDT at KXFM 104.7 Radio for #1 Taco Survey results and a fun interview with a Mexican restaurant owner here whose “random idea” connected to his restaurant created a fortune in a whole new way.
If you’re not nearby to twirl that radio dial … in fact, if you’re one of my subscribers hailing from one of those 32 countries, download the free KXFM Radio app from Google Play or the App Store … OR just go online to KXFMRadio.org
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